Friday, April 24, 2009

A Fresh Take on Influential Imagery

Adam Christopher’s take on the boardwalk at the Fontainebleau ‘54

This is the best thing I’ve found in a while now. A Fresh Take is like Secret Fort’s Head to Toe but oh so much more. Each post is like a one look concept rig focused on a particular time and place. Follow Adam Christopher from a contemporary brunch in Tribeca to a date at the Drive in circa 1962. The range of product he chooses from in also refreshingly broad from James Perse and A.P.C. to Bean and J. Press. To me, this is the very definition of influencing imagery.

Monday, April 20, 2009

13&W ebay discoveries – vintage haberdashery via writersink

One of my favorite ebay dealers, writersink, has some great vintage hab stuff up for auction as we speak.  I know JP’s going to love this Hart Schaffner & Marx salesman case with sample swatches dating from the fist quarter of the 20th century.  I bet most of you didn’t realize that HartMarx were the first to put zippers into the flys of trousers in 1926.  The other standout in my mind is the 1957 Great Western salesmen kit complete with swatches, mailers, sizing forms and a truly unique calling card (pictured above). 

Readers beware, I’m calling dibs on the HSM box and I’m ready for a war…. 

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Clearly terrible advice...

When I saw this painted phrase inside a store that had recently closed shop down in soho I was immediately reminded of a recent conversation I had with JP of theselvedgeyard.  All of the stuff you see on this weblog is great but, at the end of the day, its just stuff and I don't really need any of it.

Friday, April 10, 2009

Rugby x The Selby at colette NOW

The rest of the photos of The Selby shop/show at colette can be seen here.

A guide to pre-spring layering with New York's best dressed barber

There is always something to learn from a run-in with Clemente DiMonda.  Today, Mr. Lauren's barber of twenty plus years shows us how to effectively layer corduroy and tweed without looking like you belong on the moors.  The camel DB topcoat (which was buttoned before I stopped him) and silk scarf take this look out of the field and stream and into the heart of Madison Avenue.  The fedora and vintage pocket watch don't hurt either...

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Influential Imagery - Wooden Timepieces

A detailed description of these and other amazing wooden watches can be found at Watchismo

Channeling Digby & Aldo

My father loved the boatneck sweater and bowtie combination.  Like so much of his style, this look was adopted during his undergraduate years at the University of Pennsylvania where he studied under the famed academic and sociologist E. Digby Baltzell. Professor Baltzell is credited for the creation of the acronym WASP and was known for his fondness for tweeds, regimental stripes, and bowties.  He was said to slightly favor athletes who excelled in academics because he believed that a well-rounded education had to include rigorous exercise of the mind and body.  Knowing this, the members of PENN’s football team would show up to Digby’s class in burgundy boatneck letter sweaters.  My father added the tie for extra points.  He continued this after graduation, changing only the side of sweater the world saw because PENN tradition dictates that letter sweaters must be worn inside out after leaving the shade of trees that line Locust Walk.  This morning, while thinking of him fondly, I grabbed my striped boatneck in PENN’s colors, one of his favorite bowties and headed out the door and into the sunlight.  I’d like to think that somewhere, he and Digby are chatting about their days together and smiling.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Influential Imagery - A Restless Transplant

all images taken by Foster from A Restless Transplant

A word to the folks at Rogue Gallery - Hold onto this Foster chap if you know what's good for you.

Monday, April 6, 2009

The perfect gifts for a sartorially minded apres skier from the lou

vintage ski tie bar purchased at the chelsea flea market

assorted A-B aluminums

Friday, April 3, 2009

Esquire speaks Italian proficiently, not fluently

Last week, I was lucky enough to attend a release party for Esquire’s The Spring 09 version of Esquire’s Big Black Book. The event was held at B&B ITALIA, makers of modernist home furnishings and featured a look at the Spring 09 Canali collection. Like the Italocentric get together, the book in question also stressed the importance of the boot on men’s style. In a spread entitled, “How to Speak Italian on the Weekends” the editors at Esquire demonstrated that they almost get it through highlighting a few of the style principles that set Italian men apart from the rest. Most of their points are spot on (ie - the art of layering and the shock of color) and it was a valiant effort to use of a multinational cast to model the looks but they failed to mention the singular most important aspect of Sprezzatura – ATTITUDE! All the short white jeans, purple driving mocs and pink jackets in the world won’t mean a thing without it. They also show Brad Fisher in a pointed collar dress shirt. Well dressed Italians (and Americans for that matter) know that pointed collars should always have buttons through them…

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Influential Imagery - Spring Rigshots at BG

If I could dress myself from just one store it would be, without doubt, Bergdorf Goodman. It is the closest to retail perfection that I have found (despite the lack of Rugby product). The music is surprisingly hip for a luxury store, the sales associates are knowledgeable and amicable without being pushy or annoying and the product assortment is the best mix of heritage American, classic Italian and everything in between. I love heading over at the beginning of each season to take a look at their rigs. Below are a few I was inspired by on my last visit. I know that the east coast prep style has a supposed monopoly on summer brights (ie: GTH pants & madras blazers) but I’ve got to say that I’ve never seen seersucker and that dusty rose color, this time in chambray, look much cooler than it does below on that Cantarelli rig.

The Italians are backing tailored jackets in chambray this spring and I'm backing them.

The perfect summer grey - This look is all Lino

The shorts and jacket combo looks cool as long as it's not a suit. Just ask these guys.

The double buttonhole is the first thing most would notice here. I like the cotton cable knit tie.

You can't tell from this photo but that jacket is a white on white seersucker.